painperdu

Bananas Foster Pain Perdu

3K4Q26YAXY2E

 

A few days ago, I wished my cousins a good time as they took off to attend the Mardi Gras. I, sadly, will not be at the festivities this year, but as I write this on the Sunday before, I am thinking about a Sunday 6 years ago in early 2006 when I wrote this:

“Next Sunday at this time I will be in New Orleans. I have just reread an article sent to me a few months back called Optimism on Lake Ponchartrain by New Orleans freelance writer, Deborah Cotton. She writes that upon returning to the city (post-Katrina), she was driving to pick up a friend when she passed a favorite Mid-City joint -'Captain Sal's, where you could get the fattest, juiciest, whole cooked crab in spicy broth for only $4 apiece.” She had visited Captain Sal’s a couple of days before having to flee New Orleans at the end of August.

She continues:

‘the entire shop's contents, along with those of their next door neighbor’s, The 99 Cent Store and a beauty supply shop, were strewn across the sidewalk, equipment bent, twisted, rusted, piled up with a legion of flies swarming around everything ...

And then the levee broke. And I cried long and hard over everything that everyone has lost.

As I read those lines, the levee burst for me, too. Perhaps it’s because I am anxious about what will face me next week. Or perhaps it is because I read an article in the L.A. Times this morning about the Crewe de Vieux, a bawdy, old fashioned Mardi Gras parade that I attended with my brother, Eric, and visiting friends, Fran and Osseo, several years back, or because the article mentioned The Court of the Two Sisters, a venerable French Quarter restaurant, and I am remembering how on a summer visit to New Orleans, in the late 1960's, how my father dressed all of us up in our Sunday best and took us to lunch there, where we sat, on our best behavior, and were served graciously. He said he had always wanted to dine there when he was growing up in New Orleans, but that it had been denied to him because of the city’s racial caste system. Even though I have an excellent memory, generally, and a pretty damn good taste memory, in particular, I cannot now, for the life of me, tell you what I ate, what the food was like, or anything at all about the place. I do know that it was an important day for him."

When I told the story to Leah Chase later on that visit, she said, “Of course. We all heard stories from the men in our community who worked in those restaurants, and we all wanted to dine at them.”

I’ve traveled to New Orleans several times since that anxious day in 2006. Many parts of the city are looking better than I ever remember, and that especially includes the French Quarter. When I was there last August, prowling through the streets of the Quarter, I happened upon The Court of the Two Sisters. It’s not one of the hot culinary palaces one hears buzz about-like August, Bayona or Stella, nor is it one of the distinguished old eateries that’s a “must visit someday” on everyone’s list-like Commander’s Palace, Galatoire’s or Brennan’s. But there it stood, on Rue Royale (which on Mardi Gras day, like the rest of the French Quarter, will be mobbed with revelers), housed in an early 18th century building in the heart of the Vieux Carre, as it has for over 60 years, serving the traditional Creole dishes.
 

Two of those traditional dishes on every Creole restaurants menu are bread pudding and Bananas Foster. In this recipe, I’ve combined the two (with inspiration from Restaurant Stella's Scott Boswell) for a special Mardi Gras treat. Recipe follows:

Pierre Maspero's Oyster Po'Boy with Spinach and Artichoke

Oyster Po'boy with Spinach and Artichoke

Saturday's lunch at IFBC NOLA brought  yet another huge spread- well, no surprise... we were in New Orleans and at a food blogging conference. There was so much, I (unfortunately) had to make choices about what to taste and what to pass up. The Crawfish Slider Cakes (pictured below) were certainly worthy of an honorable mention, and while it all looked amazing, the stand out for me was the Oyster with Spinach and Artichoke Po'Boy from Pierre Maspero's.

Now, you can get oyster po'boys all over the greater New Orleans area, but this one was an over the top, decadent po'boy on steroids. It had not only a creamy mix of spinach and artichokes slathered on the French loaf, but was finished with a Thai aioli and blue cheese crumbles. Yep, now that's decadent.

I was so taken with it that decided to give Pierre Maspero's a shot for lunch on the Monday after the conference. I'm glad I did. Located on the corner of St. Louis and Charters Street in the French Quarter, the restaurant is housed in an old coffee house (and slave) exchange built in the 1780's (now there's something you'll never find in L.A.), where reputedly pirate brothers Jean and Pierre Lafitte met to plan their escapades. Not all of them were wicked, though. It's reportedly the site where they met with Andrew Jackson to plan the defense of New Orleans in the War of 1812's decisive battle.

I ordered Crab Cakes for lunch (also pictured below), usually a dish that disappoints at restaurants, but these were worthy. I spied Carol, the manager, who I had briefly met on Saturday, walking from the kitchen to the bar. She was carrying a sample of a "new" dish they were planning to add to the menu, for the staff to sample. I went over to say hello before I left. "Stuffed Pork Chops", she told me. "We're focusing on bringing back some of the old time dishes".

"Ah yes, I remember my mother making them when I was a child," I told her.

"Please come back and see us again when you're in New Orleans" she said, as I ran off to meet with Susan Spicer at Bayona.

Lucky for us, btw, Carol was gracious enough to share the recipe for the Po' Boys, so get your hands on some Louisiana oysters and make this one soon! Oh, and you'll need some sweet French bread with a thin crispy exterior, and a soft fluffy interior-no chewy, textured sourdough for this. Continue reading...

  Crawfish Cake Sliders from Pier 424 Restaurant  (Photo Courtesy of Foodista)

Crab Cakes at Pierre Maspero's

Muriel's Goat Cheese and Shrimp Crepes at IFBC NOLA

 

 
Goat Cheese and Shrimp Crepes- Photo Courtesy of Foodista

 

After finishing our delightful lunch at Commander's Palace, Nancie MacDermott and I rushed back to the venerable Hotel Monteleone (the lobby was bustling even on a sweltering NOLA night in late August) in the French Quarter, to the opening sessions of the International Food Blogger's Conference. Following a panel discussion, and a time of shared tips from extremely talented food photographer and stylist, Andrew Scrivani (take a look at his portfolio), we were treated to a reception showcasing the wines of Navarra, with treats from Muriel's Restaurant. There were frittatta bites, and prosciutto wrapped asparagus served, certainly worthy complements for Spanish wine, but the standout treat of the reception for me was a home grown NOLA dish, the Shrimp and Goat Cheese Crêpes. Not much surprise there-3 things I love (crêpes, goat cheese and shrimp) in one dish! Chef Gus Martin, of Muriel's (located in the heart of the French Quarter), kindly shared the recipe with me to post here. BTW, Chef Gus trained in the kitchen Commander's Palace, under the watchful eye of Chef Paul Prudmhomme and Ms. Ella Brennan, like so many of New Orleans' chefs.

Also, you can get a recipe for crepes and view a video of me making them at my small pleasures catering blog by clicking the link in the recipe, which you'll find below...

Chatting with Ti Adelaide Martin of the Brennan Family-from the Origins of Commander's Palace to Mr.B's Bistro

Yesterday was King's Day, the Feast of the Epiphany, and  in New Orleans, the official beginning of the Carnival season. Seems like a good time to start my long awaited series on my time there last summer.

So I begin-with a segment of the wonderful interview I had with Ti Adelaide Martin.  Before we headed to the Hotel Monteleone for the International Food Bloggers Conference NOLA at the end of last August, fellow food blogger (and cookbook author), Nancie McDermott and I, were privileged to sit down and enjoy lunch at Commander's Palace with Ms. Martin, manager (along with her cousin Lally Brennan) of the venerable New Orleans restaurant, and daughter of Ms. Ella Brennan, matriarch of the famed restaurant family.

Ms. Ella, as she's known, has been credited with making New Orleans an eating destination, and has launched the careers of many well known chefs. We touched on all sorts of topics from the history of NOLA restaurants, cocktails, the "crashing" (as Ti Adelaide put it) of Cajun and Creole cuisines, the meaning of hospitality in general, and what makes a great restaurant, in particular.

Today, I'm so happy to share the first post from that interview, in which we talk about the origins of Commander's Palace, their flagship restaurant housed in a 19th century Garden District mansion, straight on to the beginnings of the modern restaurant history of New Orleans. Enjoy! and don't forget to check back peridiocally for more from our talk, and my time in the city.

 

Good Luck for the New Year Italian Style-Cotechino and Warm Lentil Salad

Cotechino and Lentils with Sautéed Tuscan Kale

 

Okay, I’m a Southerner by birth and in much of my food tastes, but to tell the truth, I have never liked black eyed peas, which are the traditional Southern dish, along with greens (greens for money, and the legumes for good luck), eaten for luck at New Year’s.

So I was happy to learn from Creminelli Fine Meats that in regions of Italy, Lentils and Cotechino, a mouth-watering sausage, originating in the Modena region and spiced with clove and garlic, is the New Year’s good luck tradition. I broke out a favorite recipe of mine, Lentil Salad, and warmed it up to serve with the Cotechino. In keeping with tradition, I’ve sautéed some Tuscan kale with garlic to add to the platter.

And lucky for you, Creminelli has generously offered to send a New Year’s gift of Cotechino directly to one of you so that you can welcome 2012 properly, too. 

Just leave a comment here at this post, and then retweet the post (and send me a note or comment with tweet URL) for a second entry. But hurry, this contest ends soon, on the 29th at Midnight, PST. BTW, this is my very first contest, so please respond generously! 

Bon Appetit and Good Luck!

Crabmeat Gratin-A New Orleans Classic with a Jarlsberg Twist

Crabmeat Gratin with Jarlsberg

I am so grateful to Jarlsberg USA , who as I mentioned in my last post, made my August trip to New Orleans and the International Food Bloggers Conference held there possible. I've recreated this classic dish, found in many venerable New Orleans restaurants, with Jarlsberg as my tribute of thanks. It's a great dish-a bit rich, but it's only a small serving, so feel free to indulge. I recommend it as a first course for a fancy sit down holiday dinner-like the French (and still observed in some restaurants and quarters of New Orleans) December holiday réveillon (from the word réveil-meaning "waking"-the late and long meals served on Christmas and New Year's Eves) dinner. And by the way, It happens to go great with Champagne.

Enjoy!

Looking Back at 2011 in Gratitude

In spite of the many difficult things this year brought, there was still so much to be grateful for, a loving and supportive family being the most important.

And as I look back, there are also many to thank in the realm of food blogging, and over the next few posts, I’ll be sharing more about them, along with recipes, but for now, here are the people and happenings making it on to my gratitude list for 2011.

1. I am truly grateful to Ronnie Campbell and Jarlsberg USA for their continued support. In the spring, Ronnie commissioned me to work on a Summer Garden Party menu featuring Jarlsberg. I invite you to view the entire menu, and test some of the tasty results like Jarlsberg Vegetable Canapés, Jarlsberg Stuffed Shrimp Cakes and great Summer Vegetable Frittatas for yourself. As always, Ronnie was a delight to partner with.

2. And speaking of Jarlsberg USA and delight, I was overjoyed that they sponsored me to attend the International Food Blogger’s Conference in New Orleans at the end of August. I had intended to post a series reporting back on the trip shortly after returning to L.A., but life intervened. It was a fabulous time, however, and the series, albeit a bit delayed, is still coming-kicking off soon with a great interview with Ti Adelaide Martin, general manager of the legendary Commander’s Palace in New Orleans. So please check back.

BTW, Ronnie sent me this great Jarlsberg T-shirt to wear at the conference. It captured many an eye, as you can see the burgers are rather prominently featured. Ronnie's response- “well, you will be around the corner from Bourbon Street.”

3. While I’m remembering sponsors, I have to thank Lindsay Olives for sponsoring me to attend Camp Blogaway last May. They sent a case of their Black Olives and their wonderful new Lindsay Green Naturals for me to play with. Take a look at the Fiesta Cheesy Olive Spoon Bread and the Chicken PIccadillo Chiles Rellenos I created using them.

 


4. More opportunities came to create featured menus when the lovely Barbara Blake invited me to create menus to feature at her website, Smooth Jazz Sunday Brunch, including a Summer Sonoma Winery Picnic Brunch, and at and At Home for the Holidays Brunch featuring yummy Cheese Blintzes with Chunky Apple Compote, Shiitake Stuffed French Toast and Spiced Pumpkin Waffles.

5. Speaking of summer and wine, there were many sponsoring companies that allowed me to revive a much beloved summer tradition in my household-the Rosé Fest, my tribute to pink wines. Big thanks to all the wineries (please check out the list at the Rosé post) that contributed their delicious fruits of the vine, and to Melissa’s Produce, the California Fig Board and Creminelli Meats for sharing product that I was able to use in creating tasty and properly rustic summery dishes to accompany blush wines. BTW, Creminelli has generously offered one of their custom salume products-one traditionally served at New Year’s for luck-to give to a lucky reader at my very first blog giveaway. So please check back next post to enter the contest.

6. Okay-this company is one I should have thanked last year, but their gift to me lasted well into 2011. Albert Uster Imports sent me a surprise chocolate goody each month for a year. Not too good for the waistline, but oh, soooo yummy. You can check out a few of the treats at my Valentine’s Day post.

 7. I’m grateful to Ballantine’s PR for inviting me to dine and get away at two of the fabulous resorts they represent-Coast Restaurant at the Canary Hotel in Santa Barbara, and the Portola Hotel in Monterey. Because of the turmoil in my life this fall, I have not been able to tell you about the Portola Hotel yet, but I promise I will soon. Hint-if you’re a beer lover, you must check back for that.

 8. I am truly grateful for the food blogging community, for all the wonderful fellow bloggers I met at IFBC in New Orleans, for the old and new friends I spent a weekend communing with at Camp Blogaway in Big Bear, and for our local Food Bloggers Los Angeles community. You’ve all been a uniquely supportive and nurturing bunch that I am proud to be a part of. 

And last, but certainly not least, a BIG THANKS to all of you, who continue to check in and read my blog, even when I’m not too regular about posting (I commit to being better in 2012), and giving me your feedback through the comments you leave. And don’t forget- next week I’ll be doing my first giveaway contest. So come back and leave a comment!

 

Bon Appetit!

 

A Grateful Remembrance

 

This year was filled with many rivers to cross for my family and me. My mother crossed her final river a couple of weeks ago. We were deeply saddened to see her go, but she was in tremendous physical pain her last few days, and as my Aunt Gloria said so simply and eloquently to me earlier this week, “that’s what makes us let ‘em go.”

My mother was a young child during the Great Depression. Her family could not afford to have a portrait shot taken of her, as they did of her two older siblings. In fact, there are no pictures at all of her as a child. There was, however, a drawing of a little brown skinned angel in the house, so whenever she would ask her mother where her picture was, my grandmother, Mama Dear, would tell her “Look at that angel, that’s you.”

And my mother was an angel to so many throughout her life. Several generations of children, of all ages, and whether they were related to her or not, called her Nanny. My Uncle Reiss has said, she took on the role of being his angel as an adolescent and young woman. When she married, she took on the job of loving and caring for us, her children, as a mother. She took on caring for Mama Dear's, and her sister, Adele, through long illnesses and the end of their lives. When my Aunt Adele’s youngest child, Illona, was born only 10 days after my youngest brother, Eric, she took on caring for her, carting them around like twins. When we were grown, she finally took the opportunity to begin the task of caring excellently for herself. And when my Aunt Adele’s children had children of their own, she became their de facto grandmother.

She taught me to read at a very early age, and instilled a love of words in me that remains to this day. It was her life’s calling. Not only did she teach countless other children to read throughout her career as an early childhood teacher, she continued her mission as a volunteer, taking books into schools in underprivileged areas with Reading is Fundamental, well into her retirement. She was still reading books that I, or others, brought to her in the last three months whenever she could manage.

It didn’t stop with early childhood reading. She believed in education. She was ever grateful for the opportunity to receive a college education (she was the recipient of a music scholarship to Xavier University), and worked tirelessly on behalf of Xavier, her and my father’s alma mater. By the way, in gratitude to Xavier for providing her with her education, she made a decision to now give back with the establishment of the Phenella Perez  Educational Scholarship Fund.

My mother and I have very different personalities, and different ways of dealing with things. There were times I could become very frustrated because of that, but the older I got, the wiser my mother became to me. One of the greatest lessons she quietly taught me in her later life, was that just because someone else did something wrong, didn’t mean I shouldn’t do the right thing. It’s a lesson I’m still working on.

I was still learning from her until the end. She had a final lesson to teach us in her last few months. As she grew ill, it became our loving task to care for her. She faced her last days with tremendous courage and serenity. Although she was willing to do whatever her doctors recommended to save her life, and although she worked diligently with the physical and occupational therapists (they grew to love her, too) to restore her physical life, she accepted from the beginning that it may be her time, and she was ready to go. She gently encouraged us, her children and brothers, as the time grew nearer, to let go, as well.

I am grateful for all the lessons.

We will miss her tremendously, but we take comfort in knowing there were at least as many who love her, both those we knew, and those we learned of only through the stories she told us, waiting to greet her on the other side.

Mom with Uncle Reiss when they were young

Mom, Uncle Reiss and me at my first Mardi Gras. Yes, those are bunny ears. As Mom said, every baby was a bunny at their first Mardi Gras.

Mom, my brother Al and me on May Day

 

A Precious Visit

Bev, my brother, Al, and Arthe'

I have been away from this blog for too long. There are several reasons. Computer problems, bigger challenges than I anticipated putting together the audio and slide show of my interview with Ti Adelaide Martin of the Brennan family, with which I wanted to start the coverage of my food blogging trip in New Orleans at the end of August. More importantly, my days have been occupied with daily trips to the hospital.

My mother was released from the hospital a few days ago after a 3 week stay, and a very serious surgery and period of rehab. In the last week she was there, I took her life long friends, Arthé and Beverly to visit her. Afterwards, Arthé christened it "a precious visit". The following is a section of a piece I wrote after the visit which I want to share with you now. And I promise- the coverage of the New Orleans trip is coming soon.

Meeting John Besh, Eating at Restaurant August and Recipe for Brown Butter Fig Tart

John Besh, Barnaby Dorfman of Foodista, and future foodie (Photo courtesy of Foodista)

Although everyone I mentioned it to, leading up to my interview with John Besh, said he’s such a great guy, I still wasn’t prepare for how completely impressed I would be with him. He’s charismatic, warm and thoughtful, and (icing on the cake) tall with boyish good looks tempered by a tiny bit of gray that’s beginning to touch his temples.

Chef Besh spoke to the attendees of the International Food Bloggers Conference after our Saturday night wine pairing dinner at the Monteleone. I had a chance to observe him out in the hallway before he took the stage. Everyone wanted to greet him. Women hugged him, the men shook his hand, he was even kissing babies. When I got the chance to speak with him at his flagship Restaurant August, the Monday after the conference, I said to him, “You should run for mayor. You’re such a natural.”

“I’ll leave that to Mitch,” he said, laughing. “He’s doing a great job. And Ray. I really liked Ray, too.” And such a diplomat, too.

My cousin Paul, who luckily called me just as I was preparing to go to lunch,  and I decided on the 3 course pre-fixe lunch for only $20.11, an incredibly great deal, but as we looked over the menu perusing our options, our server came to the table, and said, “Order lightly. The chef is going to send out several items for you to taste.” We were served an incredible array of amazing food. When we were finished-more like when we just couldn’t eat any more- Paul looked at me and said, “I have never had a meal like this!”

We began with two amuses bouches- the first a Fish Mousse (served in a delicate eggshell) with Truffle Sabayon and Bowfin Caviar, the second an Asparagus served (again) with Truffle Sabayon and a (barely) Poached Quail Egg.

Asparagus with Truffle Sabayon and Poached Quail Egg

Then we were served the first course of our prix fix menu- for Paul, a Salad of Grilled Chilton Peaches, Aceto Balsamico, Basil Pesto, Bacon Crisp and Whipped Ricotta. For me- this luscious Pâté de Campagne of La Provence (Besh's own hog farm) Pork with Pickled Wild Mushrooms and Seasonal Marmalades (I especially liked the peach), served with thick slices of toasted Brioche.

Then 3 hot appetizers- a Green Curry Bisque with Gulf Shrimp, Potstickers and local Heirloom Chile Peppers (Paul pronounced this his favorite dish), a Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Chanterelles, Petit Tomatoes and Field Peas, and a handmade Potato Gnocchi tossed with chunks of Blue Crab and Black Truffle. Truffles- again! I thought of my L.A. food blogging buddy and truffle junkie, Erika Kerekes, knowing she would love eating here.

Corn Agnolotti

And now for our entrées: Pan Seared Gulf Sheepshead with Silverqueen Corn Custard, Succotash (that’s what the menu called it, but I saw all sorts of yummy and unexpected things like black eyed peas, summer squash and figs in the mix) and Tomato Vinaigrette; Crispy Mangalista Pork Belly with Creole Cream Cheese Malfatti (a kind of gnocchi), Mustard Greens (Paul said -these are not your mother’s mustard greens), Tomato Confit and Sauce Blanquette, and Pan Seared Louisiana Blackfish with Tarragon Pistou (which I  found absolutely delicious!), Petit Summer Vegetables and Candied Blood Orange.

 

Gulf Sheepshead with Corn Custard

 

Crispy Pork Belly with Malfatti and Mustard Greens

 

Louisiana Blackfish with Tarragon Pistou and Petit Summer Vegetables

 Are you just completely drooling and sated yet? Save room for dessert...

When Robert Kerner, the wonderful captain recommended the Brown Butter Tart of Celeste (a local variety) Fig with Bourbon Ice Cream to us, I declined, saying, I make a fig tart of my own that I love, opting for the Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Croquant with Salted Caramel and Mc Ewam's Buttered Popcorn Ice Cream ("people ask me what Buttered Popcorn Ice Cream tastes like, Robert said, "I tell them it tastes like being a kid"). But fortunately for me, the kitchen sent out their fig tart anyway, along with the desserts we ordered. So-okay, I guess one can never have too many good fig tart recipes in their repertoire, and I’ll be adding this one to mine. Yep, it was that good. 

Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Croquant with Salted Caramel and Buttered Popcorn Ice Cream

I know some of you have been waiting patiently to hear reports back on my trip to New Orleans. Ah-the rest of my life has forcefully raised its head since my return, but there's lots more to come, including a sit down interview with Chef Besh, Susan Spicer, chef/owner of Bayona, and the irrepressible Ti Adelaide Martin of the Brennan family, and general manger of Commander's Palace. So keep checking back. In the meantime, you may want to give the Brown Butter Fig Tart a try. Recipe follows  ...